Author Martin Miklas
ISBN 9781839370380
Binding Hardcover
Year 2018
"Leather is such fascinating material. Every pore and scratch tells a story of the animal’s life. Since the dawn of time, mankind has been using leather for a variety of applications but one of the most common ones is shoe making. In fact, different animals produce leathers with different qualities. The mighty industry is not just a fashion statement for us, but also a great source of foreign exchange. Leather Industry enjoys a lot of benefits. It employs a large sector of people. Leather occupies an important part of lives, from bags, dresses, accessories, footwear, and belts. The quality of the leather is determined by the raw materials and the way it has been chemically treated and then finally the look and feel. Multi-national companies have their wing invested in this billion-dollar industry, with increasing international brands across the globe is striking evidence of how people love and enjoy the products.
This book contains state-of-the-art information on fancy, split, and specialty leathers. The text in this book is comprised of seven chapters. Chapter 1 presents a focus on chamois leather. The chapter discusses the chamois leather by formaldehyde-sardine oil combination tannage. It explains the chrome crust and mordanted crust from wet salted goat skins. Finally, it presents book-binding skivers and chamois leather from goatskin splits. Chapter 2 focuses on napa and wallet leather. It focuses on grain garment leathers from raw sheepskins. Moreover, it highlights white chrome sheep lining leathers by tanning in vats. Chapter 3 sheds light on sheepskins chrome lining leather. Sheepskin is used to produce sheepskin leather products and soft wool-lined clothing or coverings, including diplomas, gloves, hats, footstools, automotive seat covers, baby and invalid rugs and pelts. Chapter 4 aims to cover on shoe leather. Apart from the construction of a shoe, the other most important aspect is the choice and quality of leather. Leather is essentially a hide sourced from different animals and has various characteristics. Each leather undergoes many steps to produce the end result. Some of them are perfect for rougher use and scuff resistance while others more delicate and for more formal occasions. Likewise, soft leathers like Suede don’t like water but instead, make for an excellent casual or summer shoe. Chapter 5 intends to cover the screen and block printing of leathers. Printing patterns, symbols, and ornaments onto materials is a form of embellishment that is more common in the textile industry than in the leather sector. Where the leather is printed, it is usually for handbags or labels. Chapter 6 highlights the processing of skin for leather. It highlights the processing of animal skin for leather, the processing of dik-dik skin, the processing of rabbit skin for leather, and the production of rabbit skins and wool. Chapter 7 sheds light on the dressing of hair, kid, turtle, and lizard, shark, frog, and lambskins for leather. Kid skins of different colors having fine hair and curly wool are available in the northern region. Mostly these types of skins are collected from pinjrapole sources. The skins having a. peculiar type of curly design, in various colors possess. A soft feel and beautiful appearance on finishing, particularly skins of still-born kids known as slunk are considered the best type. This book will be of interest to students and others associated with the field."
Martin Miklas is a Leatherworker based at Santiago. He has over two decades of experience in the leather industry as an award-winning leather artist. He pursued his Graduation in Textile Technology and Leather Processing from Technological University, Alberta. His research interests are in chamois leather, chrome lining leather and processing of skin for leather. Miklas has also contributed several articles and research papers on all aspects of leather manufacturing operations and technology.
Preface IX Chapter 1 Chamois Leather 1 1.1 Chamois Leather by Formaldehyde-Sardine Oil Combination Tannage 2 1.2 Chamois Leather by Formaldehyde 12 1.3 Chrome Crust and Mordanted Crust from Wet Salted Goat Skins 21 1.4 Book-Binding Skivers and Chamois Leather from Goat Skin Splits 35 Summary 39 Multiple Choice Questions 40 Review Questions 41 References 42 Chapter 2 Napa and Wallet Leather 43 2.1 Napa Leather 44 2.2 Wallet Leather 48 2.3 Grain Garment Leathers from Raw Sheep Skins 59 2.4 White Chrome Sheep Lining Leathers by Tanning in Vats 65 Summary 71 Multiple Choice Questions 72 Review Questions 73 References 74 Chapter 3 Sheep Skins Chrome Lining Leather 75 3.1 Tanning 76 3.2 Structure of Skin 77 3.3 Types of Tanning 81 3.4 Sequence of Tanning 83 3.5 Methods Of Preservation 84 3.6 Pre-Tanning Operations 85 3.7 Chrome Tanned Vs. Vegetable Tanned Leather 95 Summary 105 Multiple Choice Questions 106 Review Questions 107 References 108 Chapter 4 Shoe Leather 109 4.1 Grades of Leather 111 4.2 Types of Shoe Leather 113 4.3 Leather Shoes 140 Summary 151 Multiple Choice Questions 153 Review Questions 154 References 155 Chapter 5 Screen and Block Printing of Leathers 157 5.1 Printing Process by Screen and Blocks 158 5.2 Tie & dye leathers 164 5.3 Parchment from hides and skins for use in orthopaedic appliances, musical instruments, puppets and sports goods 180 Summary 191 Multiple Choice Questions 192 Review Questions 193 References 194 Chapter 6 Processing of Skin for Leather 195 6.1 Processing of Animal Skin for Leather 196 6.2 Processing of dik-dik Skin 209 6.3 Processing of Rabbit Skin for Leather 217 6.4 Production of Rabbit Skins and Wool 222 Summary 235 Multiple Choice Questions 236 Review Questions 237 References 238 Chapter 7 The Dressing of Hair, Kid, Turtle, Lizard, shark, Frog and Lamb Skins for Leather 239 7.1 Basic concept of Dressing of Hair Kid/Lamb Skins 240 7.2 A Rapid Process for Alum or Vegetable Tanning and Finishing of Reptile Skins 243 7.3 Processing and Finishing of Lizard Skins with Glazing Lacquer 252 7.4 Manufacture of Turtle Leathers 262 7.5 The Tanning and Dressing of Frog Skins 274 Summary 277 Multiple Choice Questions 278 Review Questions 279 References 280 Index 281 |